From South Korea to the Dales (full version)

15 11 2011

I never thought I’d be a member of a website called Warmshowers and I certainly never thought I’d be telling people! However, its kinky sounding name belies it’s more innocent function: it’s couch-surfing for cycle-tourists.

I joined for a ride to Holland last year and stayed with some lovely students in the Hague who set the hosting bar very high. Six months later I received an email entitled “Could I Stay Your Place?”. After reassuring my girlfriend to let two South Korean strangers into our home I was given the go-ahead to welcome them in.

They were quite a sight: tanned, sweaty, weathered and laden but most striking of all was their attitude – they were “full of beans” as we say up north. We spent a great weekend in Manchester cooking for each other, them: traditional Korean food and me: less than traditional “Spancunian”. We saw the sights (Old Trafford), soaked up the culture (down my local) and had a game of kickabout in the park.

They learnt that I had just become unemployed and therefore saw no reason why I shouldn’t go with them to Edinburgh. Unable to provide them with any valid excuses, I got my permission slip and bought myself a pannier rack. Thanks to the hard-work and diligence of Manchester’s bike thief community I had recently been relieved of 1.6 bikes. So with a mixture of trepidation and padded lycra I set off with Joo and Soo on my (less-than-suitable) single-speed bike.

We spent an amazing week cycling through the breathtaking countryside of the Yorkshire Dales and Northumberland National Park. We wild -camped, cooked big meals, played cards and stayed up talking every night, becoming firm friends along the way. We had a few hairy moments too: I’ll never forget settling down in my tent to go to sleep by a stream in Yorkshire and beginning to dream about gunfire. I then realised I wasn’t asleep. “Strange”, I thought, too tired to put the pieces together. “Jimi, sounds like gunfire”, says Joo’s tent. I agreed with him. “It is gunfire”, confirmed Soo’s tent, who’d just finished his military service. All of our tents agreed that we were too tired to move the camp so there we slept for eight hours to the soothing sounds of the British Army out on night time manoeuvres.

My recomendation to readers is that cycle touring is something anyone can do; it’s not a race and you just go at whatever pace feels right for you, it’s a holiday. I used opencyclemap.org to find cycle routes including the Route 68, known as the Pennine Cycleway. I learnt some important things that week; that traveling the world by bike is my dream and South Koreans have an unhealthy appetite for pork scratchings. I also know I’ve got some where to stay in Busan if I ever find myself cycling through South Korea, or at least somewhere for a warm shower.

Advertisements




An almost award winning travel writer

13 11 2011

I’m sure you all read it, although just in case you missed it:

http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2011/nov/11/travel-writing-competition-uk-farming#JUMP-TEXT

In the runners up section, under my writing pseudonym “James”.

The oringinal article was a little bit longer but obvously they’re saving the rest for another issue, possibly it’s own issue, who knows?

No cycling for us this weekend but we have been working on our fitness with some frisbee and sprints in the park.

Oh and we have made two decisions this weekend;

1) We are going to leave at the end of July after our friends Ben and Kats wedding.

2) We are thinking of heading to Scandinavia first, possibly on a ferry from Harwich to Esbjerg and then to ride a loop through Norway and Sweden.

Has anyone been to Scandinavia? We would really love some tips on where to go, what to see and do.

x





“Today we Rode!”

5 11 2011

We decided a little training may be needed before our trip and this means setting off early from Manchester and tackling the long steep hills of the peak District towards Buxton.

Much to my dismay it wasn’t raining, (I had just purchased a nice Patagonia waterproof and wanted an excuse to wear it!)
So we got to the first hill, half way up my legs failed and I had to push the bike and my backpack up the hill, stopping halfway to remove a layer of clothing to prevent overheating. Jimi cruised past me with the full panniers up the hill before me.

Finally we reached the top and phew!, we took a breather before the long descent down. We set off down the hill to a loud screeching noise coming from both the bikes and realised our brakes were not working properly! Jimmy had his brakes on full and he was still powering down the hill with the weight of the panniers on the back of him.
So eventually the ride down the hill turned into pushing our bikes down at a slow pace, due to the sheer steepness of the hill.

“Pushing downhill”: the final insult to a wannabe fast cyclist! (but a nice metaphor, for what I’m not sure)

All in all a top day, now we are off to hide from the fireworks, eat lamb and be merry.
x